An Excursion to Portland  

Extracted from a book entitled

 A Summer Trip to Weymouth and Dorchester

(including an excursion to Portland and a visit to Maiden Castle the Amphitheatre and other places of interest)

by

James Silk Buckingham (1786 - 1855)

Published in 1849

Benson and Barling, Weymouth

 

Located and transcribed by Bob Stone

(with the kind assistance of the Weymouth Reference Library)  

 

Being desirous of extending my range of investigations somewhat beyond the limits of

Weymouth, I availed myself of a fine day in September, and joining a party of friends for the purpose, we set off soon after breakfast, on an excursion to Portland: some of the young gentlemen of our party preferring the pedestrian mode, as giving greater freedom of movement in digressions from the main roads, others going on horseback, and the ladies in open carriages.

On leaving Weymouth, and attaining the summit of the hill which overtops the town to the south-west, we were struck with the beautiful marine picture presented by the high-land of Portland, rising from the long low beach of pebbles and sand by which it is united to the main land of Dorset, and the pretty bay within this to eastward, in which were lying a number of vessels, wind-bound on their way down channel; while the blue surface of the ocean was seen to the westward beyond.  The whole scene reminded me forcibly of the Rock of Gibraltar rising from the low sandy isthmus which connects it with the west of Spain, called the Neutral Ground: its bay of anchorage for shipping, and the blue surface of the broad Atlantic to the west.  The Rock of Gibraltar is the more lofty and more precipitous of the two, but in other respects the resemblance was very striking.

After descending the hill, through Wyke-Regis, and a pretty tract of country, we came to the Ferry, or Trajectus, as old Leland called it in 1538; where he says “the Trajectus is by a bote and a rope bent over the haven, so that yn the ferry bote they use no ores.”  There is now a handsome and very substantial bridge erected across this Ferry which has much increased the intercourse with the Island.

Crossing this, we arrived at the sandy isthmus, along the eastern edge of which we drove for about a mile, and then alighting from our vehicles, we went up westward to the topmost part of the ridge, called Chisel Bank.  This is a neck, extending for about ten miles from the high land of Portland along the coast of Dorset, in a north-westerly direction; its average height is from fifty to sixty feet above the level of the sea, and its breadth varies from a quarter to half-a-mile.  Exposed as it is on the south-western side to the whole range of the western ocean, coming up form the broad Atlantic, this most extensive beach exhibits the largest collection and greatest variety of pebbles to be seen anywhere in England or in the British Channel, all washed up from the bottom of the sea.  Near the projecting peninsula of Portland, where these stones first touch the shore, they are the largest in size and least rounded in form; but as the drift of the currents and the pressure of the ocean continually drive them farther and farther in towards the bay, in a northerly and south-westerly sweep, they become smaller and smaller, and smoother and smoother, being thus worn and reduced by constant attrition, till at length, in a series of years, they are diminished from masses of ten and twelve pounds weight to little pebbles of an ounce or less; and the diminution of the size is so gradual, that a skilful and experienced pilot cast upon the beach in the darkest night, could tell his relative distance from either extremity of this long neck, by the size of the pebbles along.

 It was a grand and interesting sight to stand upon the topmost part of the ridge of this isthmus, and look to the western edge, where the waves rolled in with such force as to wash the largest stones up to the farthest limit that the water reached, keeping the whole mass in a state of constant attrition; and as far as the eye could reach along the north-western shore, the surf left a line of snow white foam, in unbroken continuity.  There were also several distinct ridges or terraces, between the summit and the foot of this isthmus, formed by the different degrees of force which the waves had exerted, in moderate breezes, hard gales, or violent tempests.  On the other hand, as we looked down on the eastern side of the ridge, the slope was quite even, the soil sandy, and the bay within it perfectly smooth and tranquil; though occasionally, during terrific gales, the waves have been known to ride over the whole ridge, which is from sixty to one hundred feet high; and during the great storm of 23rd November, 1824, a vessel of 95 tons, (in the service of the ordnance, laden with heavy iron guns, bound to Lough Swilly,) was saved in a most miraculous manner, by being carried over the beach by a tremendous sea, at the period of high water, and ultimately, by the exertions of the hardy Islanders, (who were employed by the board of ordnance,) this vessel was finally launched into the sea on the Weymouth side.

Portland is not more than four or five miles from Weymouth, so that we were there in a short time, from the Chisel Bank.  On entering the Island (for so it is in appearance, and so it is called, though in strictness it is only a peninsula) we passed on the left, the Castle, which is thus described.

“Portland Castle stands at the entrance of the island, and at the foot of the highest part of it.  It is opposite Sandsfoot Castle, and both entirely command the roads.  This Castle was built by Henry VIII, on his return from the great interview with Francis the lst., of France, (commonly called ‘The Field of the cloth of Gold,’) in 1520, when those places that were most likely to be surprised by the French, were put in a posture of defence.  “In a little closet, over the gun-room is carved on the wainscot this inscription, in old English characters:-

“God, save, Kinge, Henri, VIII, of, that, name, and, Prins, Edvard, begottin, of, Quevene, Jane, my, Ladi, Mari, that, Godli, Virgin, and, the, Ladi, Elizabet, so, towardli, with, the, Kinge’s, honorable, Cöseïs’”

“In 1588 a corps of 100 foot soldiers was ordered to repair here to defend it, in consequence of the Spanish invasion. 

“In the beginning of 1642, it was seized by the Parliament; but in August of that year it submitted to the Earl of Caenarvon; 

“In March, 1643, it was taken by the rebels, who retired here with immense riches, which they had obtained in the plunder of Wardour Castle, but was recovered by the partizans of the King, who regained possession of it by the following strata-gem: - A gentleman, furnished with Parliamentary colours, and sixty men, proceeded towards the castle, in confusion, and with the haste and appearance as if flying from an enemy, and called out to the guards, that he was bringing a supply of men, but that he was pursued by the Earl of Caernaron; who was, according to design, close upon his rear.  Upon this, the gates were instantly opened, and the castle taken.

“On the 20th of June, 1644, Colonel William Ashburnham retired here, and endured for a space of four months, a siege, under extreme distress and difficulty, with great firmness and intrepidity; he was then relieved by the Earl of Cleveland, and Sir Walter Hastings appointed to succeed him in the honor and capacity of governor.

“On the 23rd of August, 1645, it was stormed by the Parliamentary forces.  On the 6th of April, 1746, it surrended (sic) to the Parliament, who granted permission to the King’s men, on condition that their arms and amunition (sic) were left behind them, to return to their homes and families.  On the 13th of April, 1647, the force here was reduced by an order of Parliament to the number of fifty men.

“The Duke of Lauderdale was confined in this castle.  The higher tier was taken down some years ago, and all the guns dismounted.

Having given a sketch of the ancient history of the Castle, it may be well to add some description of it in its present state.  It is now, and has been for some years, the residence of Captain Charles Augustus Manning, who, it appears, is held in high estimation by the inhabitants of the Island, in consequence of the interest he takes in their welfare, together with his upright and impartial administration of justice, in his capacity of Magistrate.  In August, 1841, this gentleman was elected, by the unanimous voice of the tenants of this Royal Manor, their Trustee, under her Majesty’s Grant - a boon which was originally conferred on the inhabitants by King Charles the Second, on his restoration in 1660, partly for the loyalty evinced by them during the Civil Wars, and also in consequence of the injury done to the pasture in working the Crown Quarries.

By the deed alluded to, it appears that for every ton of stone exported from the Island, a duty of one shilling is paid; half of which reverts to the inhabitants, to be expended for their benefit in the most advantageous manner.

Captain Manning has recently, at a very great expense, and with much judgement and mechanical genius, not only renovated those parts both external and internal which had fallen in decay, but his by his own hands, most elaborately fitted up and adorned the various departments.

On entering the outer gate, and passing through the approaches, the battlements surrounding the external walls form a striking object.  By this road we were brought to the principal entrance of the Castle, and the first attraction which presents itself is the ARMOURY.  In this are displayed, in the most perfect order, implements of war, ancient and modern, consisting of massive shields, coats of armour, banners, trophies, swords, muskets, spears, and pistols bearing the inscription ‘First Dragoon Guards,’ and dated 1745, (the period at which all the Fortresses were strengthened)*

 *It is a singular circumstance, that the regiment for which these pistols were made, was, at the expiration of 93 years from the date, (namely, in 1838) ordered to Canada under the command of Capt. Manning’s brother, for the suppression of the Rebellion in that country.

 There was also pieces of brass-ordnance, with ammunition chests well supplied with various kinds of shot - a massive iron chest of Spanish manufacture, of great antiquity, and the most curious workmanship.  On the left of this, is the prison in which the Duke of Lauderdale was confined during the Civil Wars.  Leaving the Armoury, we ascend the main staircase; on the side embrasures of which, are some curious pieces of brass ordnance, also of Spanish manufacture, bearing the date of 1627.  This staircase leads to the Drawing Room, which is elegantly furnished and hung with many valuable paintings; the Portraits of William and Mary, by Myttens, are particularly attractive, as well as several beautifully executed Family Portraits by Sir Peter Lely, and other eminent artists, in richly carved frames.  There is also a clock of singular workmanship in bübl, richly carved and gilt, recently brought from Canada by Captain J.S. Manning, of the King’s Dragoon Guards.  This clock has been one hundred years in the family of the French General Montcalm, who fell at the storming of Quebec in 1759.  A splendid Indian Cabinet here contains some rare china, and other articles of vertu.  Passing from the Drawing Room to the Gallery, which runs nearly the whole length of the Castle, are seen among other attractions, a Gothic Cabinet Case, containing many articles of great curiosity and antiquity; Chinese figures elaborately carved in wood; old china; a large gold snuff box. Presented to Captain J.S. Manning by the inhabitants of Wolverhampton for his valuable services in suppressing the riots at the election of 1835; there is also another gold box which was presented to him by his troop, after 25 years service; - also a handsome sliver salver presented to Captain Manning by the Vicar of Cransley, in the County of Northampton, for a beautiful model executed by him (according to the inscription) of the church of that parish.

The Library, which contains many valuable and scarce works, is also in this Gallery.  Several other rooms, branching right and left, are fitted up in the same classic style, and one of these, a small private room, contains a splendid shield of modern armour beautifully arranged..  In this room there is a valuable copy of a work entitled “Usser’s Chronology” in the title page of which, are some remarks, bearing date 1656, with the autograph of the Duke of Lauderdale, who was confined in this Castle as before mentioned.  This rare book has recently been presented to Captain Manning by Earl Grosvenor.  In one of the Bed Rooms are two very scarce and valuable prints, one entitled “The Field of the Cloth of Gold” representing the interview between Henry the Eighth and Francis the First of France; the other “The Coronation procession of King Edward the Sixth,” representing Cheapside as it appeared before the great fire of London.  In a room called Queen Jane’s closet, is a curious Portrait of James Bruce, Esq., an ancestor of Capt. Manning, and ambassador at the Court of Persia in 1699.  This picture was painted at Ishpahawn, and presented to Mr. Bruce, by the Shah, with a Callaat, or Royal Vest, and sword of great value.

The walls of the Castle are of great strength being in most parts from 10 to 14 feet thick - the outer or Court wall facing Portland Roads is also of massive masonry, and pierced for guns. 

We learn from another source that in the year 1818, the Commander-in-chief, His Royal Highness the late Duke of York, with the sanction and concurrence of the Master General of the Ordnance, granted the use of the Castle to the Manning Family, as a marine residence.  The Castle is not shewn to the public.

We continued our route to ascend the hill, passing through the village of Chiswell, and winding our way up the summit, being anxious first to visit the quarries from whence the large supplies of Portland stone are obtained, and to inspect the remarkable fossil trees which are found there, at a height of 200 feet above the level of the sea, with large masses of rock deposited above them since they were first submerged beneath the waters, where this formation was originally deposited, and since upheaved from the depths, by some subterranean agency, which could alone lift them to their present elevation.

We reached the quarries in less than an hour after our beginning the ascent, and found the workmen all engaged there.  From among one of the most intelligent of the number we obtained a guide to conduct us through every part of the works.  We had also the advantage of possessing a copy of a Paper read before the Geological Society of London, on the Geology of the Island, by Professor Buckland, and Mr. De la Beche.  From these authorities, added to the information of our guide, and the personal researches of our party, the following observations were made on the spot. 

In a section given of the west side of Portland, at the cliff of the Black Nore, which is 300 feet above the level of the sea, it appears that the lower half, down to the very margin of the sea, is of Portland sand, beginning at the lowest stratum, with sandstone concretions imbedded in a dark sandy marl; above this, are layers of grey and brown sandy marl with sand stone; this extends upwards of 100 feet from the base.  On this is superposed the following strata, rising upward in succession; - 1. Shelly grey lime stone - 2. Sandy lime stone with chert, - 3. Bubbly beds with chert, - 4. Compact and chalky lime stone with chert, - 5. good stone, - 6. roach, - 7. good stone, - 8. topmost cap.  Over this mass, which comprehends a height of 200 feet is the dirt bed, with fossil trees, of the cycadeoidex, occupying about 30 feet in thickness; and above this again is a layer or bed of calcareous slate of at least 50 feet in depth or thickness.  The following section of the three top-most layers, taken from the paper before referred to, will give an exact idea of their appearance and relative position.

 

 

 

We saw a large portion of this opened, through the fresh water formation of calcareous slate, down to the dirt bed, and below this into the marine formation of Portland stone; and we obtained from the superintendant (sic) of the quarries, a fine specimen of the petrified or fossil tree, of the bifurcated truck, lying along horizontally on the ground, for a Cabinet collection.  The important fact of the wood, flowers, and fruits of these petrifactions being of the Palm Tree, add much to the interest of their discovery.  In the admirable paper of Dr. Buckland, and Mr. De la Beche, read before the Geological Society of London, before referred to, are the following remarks on this formation in the Island of Portland, which are of sufficient interest and value to be transcribed.

“We consider a small stratum, called by the workmen ‘Dirt-bed’, to be by far the most interesting and remarkable deposit in this district.  It seems to be made up of black loam, mixed with the exuviæ of tropical plants, accumulated on the spot on which they grew, and preserved during a series of years, in which the surface of the Portland stone had for a time become dry land, and accumulated a soil of about a foot in thickness, composed of an admixture of earth and black vegetable matter, interspersed with slightly rounded fragments of stone, which Mr. Webster ascertained to be from the lower part of the Portland series.  These fragments are found to be almost coextensive with the dirt-bed; and the fact that we have yet found with them no admixture of pebbles derived from the subjacent oolites, or from any other more ancient rocks, shows that no violent rush of water from any distant region took place during the period in which these pebbles of Portland stone were under the process of becoming slightly rounded.

“This dirt-bed, as Mr. Webster has stated, forms the matrix of the silicified trunks of very large coniferous trees, which are so abundant in the Isle of Portland, and are found there coextensive with the upper surface of the Portland stone.  Wherever the dirt-bed is laid open to extract the subjacent building-stone, it is found to contain these silicified trees laid prostrate, partly sunk into the black earth, and partly covered by the superjacent calcareo-siliceous slate: from this slate the silex, to which the trees are now converted, must have been derived.  A bed of snow falling on a modern peat-bog, and covering the upper portion of prostrate trees, whose lower portion has been sunk by their weight into their substance of the peat, would represent the position of the calcareous slate which immediately covers these fossil trees in Portland.  Some of them extend to a length exceeding thirty feet, and bifurcate at their upper end; but the branches are not continuous to their extremities, and we find no traces of leaves.  The leaves and small branches, and exterior parts of the trunks, had probably decayed, whilst they lay exposed to air on the surface of the peat.  Amid these prostrate trees, many of which attain three and four feet in diameter, we find silicified stems of plants closely resembling the modern Cycas and Zamia.  These have been described by Prof. Buckland under the name of Cycadeoideae, and are important, as indicating that the temperature in which they grew was much higher than that of our present climate.  We find also, at nearly the same intervals at which trees are found growing in a modern forest, an assemblage of silicified stumps, or stods of large trees, with their roots attached to the earth in which they grew.  These stumps are from one to three feet long: they are mostly erect, whilst a few are slightly inclined.  The black earth which contains their roots seldom exceeds one foot in thickness; the upper portions of the stumps, as represented by Mr. Webster, project upwards into the substance of the superjacent stone (called “soft burr” and “aish”), which gives indication of their presence by hemispherical concretions accumulated around the top of each stump of wood.

“In the highly inclined strata of the cliff, about a furlong east of Lulworth Cove, and represented in the following sketch, we find a considerable number of these silicified stumps, some entirely laid bare by the washing of the sea, others partly exposed and partly covered, and others still wholly encased with concretions of soft burr, and all having their roots fixed in the dirt-bed, which occurs here also of the same thickness, and in precisely the same relative place, and interspersed with the same rounded fragments of limestone which it contains in the Isle of Portland. 

   

 

  Section of the Cliff east of Lulworth Cove

   

The position of these stumps, at an angle nearly of 45º to the horizon, affords a striking proof of the elevation which the strata have undergone.  We find the dirt-bed also on the top of the Portland stone, in the sections of some quarries along the Ridgeway, e g. near Upwey, on the north of Weymouth, and at the western termination of the Portland stone near Portisham, at the distance o f twenty miles west from Lulworth.  Dr. Buckland has found slight traces of this dirt-bed on the upper surface of a stratum of Portland stone in the quarries about two miles north of Thame, in Oxfordshire; it is

there covered by a few feet of clay, in which he found no other animal remains than fragments of some Testudo, too small to point out the genus to which they belong.  The recognition of this very remarkable bed in a locality so distant from Portland seems to indicate that it may be found to be nearly co-expensive with the Portland formation throughout England; and it well merits the attention of future observers to search for it in the Vale of Aylesbury, and in the two localities of the Portland stone immediate between Oxford and Dorsetshire, namely, at Swindon and Tisbury.  The probability of its occurrence at Tisbury, is increased by the recent recognition of the Cycadeoideae at this place by Miss Benett.  Dr. Fitton has discovered this deposit on the opposite side of the Channel in the Boulonnois, and has thus described it in the Annals of Philosophy, December, 1826.  ‘Some traces of the lowest members of the group to which these two strata (Weald clay and Hastings sand) belong, and which is remarkable form its containing throughout the remains of freshwater shells, are visible on the summit of the cliffs between Gris-nez and Equinen, where a thin bed occurs of somewhat bituminous clay, abounding in silicified wood, the cavities of which are coated with minute crystals of quartz.  This bed corresponds precisely to that which exists on the top of the Isle of Portland, bearing there the name of “Dirt”, and abounding in similar wood; and on the French coast it is associated with beds of limestone, different from the stone beneath, and containing shells in great numbers, apparently of the genera Cyclas and Ampullaria.’  Dr. Fitton has also recognized thin fissile beds of Purbeck stone containing freshwater shells, e.g. Cyclas and Cypris, at Whitchurch, in Bucks.  We consider this dirt-bed as quite decisive in forming the barrier between the Portland and Purbeck formations:  its depositions must have proceeded during the considerable period of time, antecedently to which the districts it occupies were entirely submerged beneath the sea, and subsequently to which the waters again returned to overwhelm the, first with deposit of about 100 feet of the semi-lacustrine sediments of a great estuary (including the united thickness of the Purbeck series and the Wealden sands and clays), and afterwards with a series of marine deposits amounting to much more than 1000 feet of greensand and chalk.

            The Portland stone was first brought into note, in the reign of James the First, in whose time it was employed by the architects of the Banqueting House at Whitehall, in the erection of their building.  It was found superior to most other stones, in the freedom with which it could be cut or sawed, either perpendicularly, horizontally, or diagonally; and hence it was called free-stone.  Sir Christopher Wren also used it largely, not only for the building of St. Paul’s Cathedral, but for the reconstruction of most of the public edifices destroyed by the great fire of London in 1666.  At present, nearly 50,000 tons of this stone are exported from these quarries annually, and a large number of vessels, from 50 to 150 tons, are employed in their conveyance.  The stones are got out of different sizes, upon the average about a ton each in weight; but many of the large blocks weigh five or six tons.  They are conveyed to the shipping places below the quarries by a rail-road; - loaded truck is so managed as to draw up the unloaded to the summit of the hill – to this point, the truck is drawn from the quarry to horses.

            In the same quarries in which the fossil trees already described, are found, there are also seen stumps of trees, in such a position, and under such circumstances, as prove beyond doubt the remarkable tranquility of the superincumbent waters, while the deposits over these buried forest were going on; and as this is a point of considerable interest the following observations on the subject are transcribed from the Geological Paper before referred to.

            “We have a measure of the duration of the period during which the surface of the Portland stone continued in the state of dry land, covered with forest, in the thickness of the “Dirt Bed,” which has accumulated more than a foot of black earth, loaded with the wreck of its vegetation.  The regular and uniform preservation of this thin bed of black earth over a distance of so many miles, shows that the change from dry land to the state of a freshwater lake or estuary was not accompanied by any violent denudation or rush of water, since the loose black earth, together with the trees which lay prostrate on its surface, must inevitably have been swept away had any such violent catastrophe then taken place.  Prof. Henslow, in the summer of 1832, found in the top cap of the Portland stone, immediately beneath the dirt-bed, root-shaped cavities descending from the bottom of the dirt-bed into the subjacent solid stone; this top cap should seem, therefore, to have been occupied by the roots of the trees which grew in the dirt-bed, and penetrated the Portland Stone while it was yet soft and unconsolidated.  He also noticed in Portland two partial and very thin seams of black earth; the uppermost at the distance of five feet, and the lowermost of seven feet, below the dirt-bed:  these seams of black earth are important, as they mark two short intervals during which vegetable matter had begun to accumulate on the surface of the soft and gradually increasing materials of the uppermost beds of the Portland stone, whilst they were just rising above the level of the sea.  The incipient bed of vegetable matter was thus twice interrupted in its progress, and buried beneath an influx, first of two feet, and next of five feet, of earthy sediment, before the general surface on which the true dirt-bed rests had been raised entirely above the water.

 

  “The above cut represents an example which in the summer of 1842 occurred to Prof. Henslow in the Isle of Portland, in a quarry where the surface of the burr had been laid bare, of an erect stump protruding through the burr stone into the superior stratum called Aish, analogous to that represented by Mr. Webster in his section of the Portland beds (Geol. Trans. Second Series, vol. ii. p. 1. Plate VI. Fig. 3 and 4) and which the workman stated to be of rare occurrence; this superior stratum exhibited to Prof. Henslow two or three of those conical and dome-shaped protuberances which so generally indicate the presence of stumps of trees immediately beneath them.  In the case represented, the protruding stump being longer than the rest, the burr stone was not deposited in sufficient thickness to over it, but was heaped around it in two circular ridges, with intermediate circular depressions.  From these appearances we may infer that a state of great tranquility attended the deposition of the calcareous sediment of which the dome-shaped caps that cover the shorter stumps were formed  (See Section of the Dirt-bed page 52.)  The circular ridges and depressions which surround the taller stumps (see page 60) seem to have been produced by an interruption of the undulations on the surface of water so shallow that the waves were caught and broken by a stump about four feet high, whilst they passed over the shorter stools immediately adjacent to them; these interrupted undulations being propagated first downwards and then outwards along and around the stump whose top was high enough to obstruct the ripple on the surface of the shallow lake, by which the dirt-bed was gradually inundated.”

            “Here, then, we have proofs of a tranquil state and gentle action of water in the period immediately succeeding, as well as in that which preceded, the formation of the dirt-bed, upon a surface that became dry land during a short time intermediate between the transition of the district which it covers from a submarine state to that of a freshwater lake.  The rapid possession which in our modern tropics is taken by the Pandanus or Screw Pine and Cocoa-nut Palm of the first banks and reefs of coral islands that emerge above the level of the sea, affords an example of the luxuriant growth of vegetables on the margin of land just rising above the water, analogous to the ancient juxtamarine forest, the remains of which contributed to the formation of the dirt-bed, in the region which has now become the southern coast of Dorsetshire.”

            With respect to the silicified trees Prof. Henslow makes the following observations: -

            “From what I saw I should think that all the erect stumps must have suffered considerable decay before they had become imbedded, or at least fossilized, in the burr.  They consisted of no more than the central portion of the wood just above and below the neck of the trees, which had every appearance of having grown in the places which they still occupy.

            “In a quarry of very white and chalk-like Portland stone, at the base of Chalbury Hill, near Preston, I found a cylindrical mass of flint, ten inches in diameter, reposing upon a soot-like mass of carbonaceous matter, probably resulting from the decomposition of leaves and bark, and forming an envelope to the lower part of the cylinder, but not extending beyond it.  Upon cracking off as much of this cylinder as protruded from the side of the quarry, I perceived the central portions, of three inches in diameter, to consist of fossilized wood.  It appears to me most probable that the whole cylinder had occupied the space originally filled by the trunk or branch of a tree; but that during the process of its becoming silicified, the organic structure of the outer portions had not been impressed upon the flint.  In the Isle of Portland the quarry-men collect a similar black vegetable substance, which they use for marking stone, &c.

            A skeleton of the Babyroussa or horned Hog, (only found in the tropical climates,) has recently been discovered in a gally under the whole bed of stone 45 feet below the surface.  This rare specimen which is nearly whole, is now in the possession of Capt. Manning.

After our inspection of the quarries, we proceeded on towards the South of the Island, where the light-houses well deserve a visit.  Of these there are two, the lower one erected in 1789, the upper one in 1817:  the former is visible from the north-east shore of Weymouth, and from the east, west, and south offing.  These points include 216º 33’ 45” or 19¼ points of vision, and 143º 26’ 15” or 12¾ points blank, which is toward the Island.  The height from the sea to the ground floor of this light-house is 61 feet, and from thence to the center of the lights 68 feet, making the total height from the sea 130 feet.  The light is visible from nearly every point of the compass at sea, and also from the north-east shore of Weymouth bay.  Taking the Chesil beach as the line of observation, the points of vision are 306º 33’ 45,” or 27¼ points, and the blank points toward the high-land of the Island are 53º 26’ 15” or 4¾ points of darkness.  The top of an old tower formerly obscured some portion of the light; but a report having been made by Mr. J.D. Harvey, to the Trinity Board, it was removed.  The height from the sea to the ground floor of the second light-house is 172 feet, and from thence to the center of the lights 25 feet, making a total height from the sea of 197 feet.  The apparatus for ensuring a brilliant light from both of the light-houses is admirable, as they are so placed that the mariner at night knows exactly the point to which he is steering:  and by day also, they serve as land-marks, and warn him of his approach to the ever-foaming “Race,” or, the meeting of tides, which is about three miles distant from the shore; and of the “Shambles,” a bank caused by the several tides dividing just at this point.  The soundings of this dangerous spot, are accurately marked in the map which has been published expressly for this work.  From the projecting point of the Bill of Portland, the prospect up and down channel embraces Torbay on the west, and the Isle of Wight to the east, at a distance of 75 miles.

Further on to the eastward, we went to see the ruins of an old building, called Rufus Castle, from a notion that it was built either by or in the time of William Rufus:  and by others called Bow and Arrow Castle, from its walls exhibiting the loopholes or openings through which the archers in ancient days discharged their arrows at their assailants.  It was pentagonal in form, and had an ancient church near it, but both are now much dilapidated and grown over with ivy.

            Near it stands a more modern building, erected by John Penn, Esq. a descendant of the Admiral Penn, before mentioned, and of his Son, William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania in America.  Mr. John Penn was for some time Governor of the Island of Portland, an appointment in the gift of the Crown, and he built this mansion as a place of summer residence, for which it is well adapted, being close to the rocks on the shore, and its windows are often dashed with the spray of the sea.  He called it Pennsylvania Castle, in honor of his ancestor, William Penn, the founder of the State of that name in America.

            The engraving at the head of this chapter (from a faithful sketch recently taken by a lady) represents the ruins of Rufus Castle, with Pennsylvania Castle in the distance.

            It is at present occupied by Thomas Heath, Esq. who spent some years of his life in India:  and as strangers and visitors are permitted to enter it, on sending their cards, we had an opportunity of going all over it.  The surrounding grounds are well laid out in lawns and shrubberies; and the house, tho’ peculiar in shape, with circular rooms, long narrow galleries, and miniature boudoirs, is fitted up and furnished in unique manner, resembling a Museum of Chinese and Indian curiosities rather than a family residence. It is however full of interest, from the infinite variety of rare and curious articles with which every room is crowded; and the arrangement is such as to set them all off to the greatest advantage.

            We returned from hence up through the center of the Island, passing through the several villages and hamlets scattered over its surface, in which we were struck with the antique and primitive style of the dwellings, with their stone porches, gable ends, small windows, and other traits of the olden times.  The people too whom we saw, and with whom we conversed, seemed as primitive in their manners, as their dwellings were in their style.  They were said to be all fishermen and quarrymen, and may exercise the avocation of both at intervals.

            The parish church of St. George, is situated about the center of the Island, and at the western extremity of the village of Reforne, is a plain stone building, capable of seating 716 persons; it is in the Diocese of Salisbury, and was erected in the year 1777.

On a small plain Tablet is the following.

 

“To the Memory of

John Penn, Esquire,

(OF STOKE PARK, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE)

GRANDSON OF William Penn FOUNDER OF PENNSYLVANIA:

Born 22nd February, 1760;

APPOINTED GOVERNOR OF THE ISLAND IN 1805

Died 21st of June, 1834;

Aged 74 Years.”

 

The following Tablet is to the memory of the late rector, the Rev. John Manning, A.M.

 

“Sacred to the Memory of

The Rev. John Manning, A.M.

FORMERLY RECTOR OF GREAT MILTON, OXFORDSHIRE

And for Nine Years Officiating Minister of this Parish

The arduous duties of which he performed with a truly

Pastoral zeal, and the most persevering exertions

To fulfil to the utmost of his power, the sacred and important

ministry which had been committed

To his charge:

Mr. Manning Died February 23rd, 1826, Aged 66 Years;

And his Mortal Remains are deposited in a Vault underneath.

He was second son of the Rev. Owen Manning, P.D., F.R.S. & F.S.A.

One of the canons of Lincoln, Vicar of Godalming,

And Rector of Peperharrow, Surrey;

Author of the celebrated History of the County,

And other literary productions.”

As a Tribute to the Virtues of their ever lamented Father,

This Monument was erected by his affectionate Sons.

 

There are also tablets to the memory of Gustavus Baron Nolcken, (son of Ambassador from the court of Sweden to this country,) who died in 1831.  Also of Captain Hope Bower, R.N. of the Orestes sloop of war, who died in Portland Roads; and of Mr. John Gilbert, architect of the church with a memorandum of a donation of £100 to the church, by his Majesty King George III.

Another church has recently been erected, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, the foundation of which was laid by Captain Manning in presence of a very large assembly of persons, on the 1st July, 1839.  This is a very neat building, situated at the upper part of the village of Chesil; it was consecrated by the Lord Bishop of Salisbury, on the 5th September, 1840, and is capable of seating 650 persons.

            The whole of the Island or Peninsula of Portland is about four miles in length, two in its greatest breadth, and nine in circumference.  There are eight separate villages, called Chesil, Fortune’s-well, Reforne, Wakeham, Weston, Easton, Southwell, and Castletown:  but the aggregate population of the whole does not exceed 3000 persons.  The race of Portlanders were anciently so celebrated for their skill in the use of the sling and stone, in battle, that they were called by the Romans, the Baleares of Britain, or the British Slingers.  In modern times, they have been more conspicuous for their efforts to save life, than to destroy it: and have exhibited great courage, generosity, and personal daring, in risking their own lives, to save shipwrecked mariners cast upon the coast.

            There are two principal names in the Island, Pearce and Stone, which, one would imagine, must have been derived from their occupation as quarries, since “to pierce the stone,” is their chief and almost constant employment.  Until of very late years, there was no example of their marring out of the Island: and in the matches made within their own circle, it was thought most becoming for a Stone to wed a Pearce, or a Pearce a Stone, rather than that two of the same name should be united.  While the men are at their occupation in the quarries, their wives and daughters appeared to be industriously occupied in domestic duties: and we saw many of them sitting in the stone porches before their doors knitting stockings: an occupation of early date among the housewives of Britain, if we may judge from the verse of Sir Thubbit Gorges, in his Interlude to Ella, as quoted by old Hackluyt, in Queen Elizabeth’s reign, who says

 

“As Elynour bie the green lasaile was syttynge

“As from the sunn’s heat she tarryed,

“She sayde, as her white hands white hosen were knyttynge,

“What pleasure yt ys to be marryed.”

 

In our way across the Island, we saw the Spring at Fortune’s-well, 200 feet above the level of the sea; and found the water of it excellent.  We saw also the remains of the Roman encampment, which is still visible on the height of the hill behind the Inn called the Portland Arms.  And in the custody of the landlord of this Inn, is the Reeve Pole, an old relic of Saxon times, on which every acre of land in Portland is described, and by the authority of which the bailiff of the Island still collects the dues of the lord of the manor.

            As we descend the northern slope of the Island on our return to Weymouth, we were much struck with its splendid Bay, and the importance of its projected Breakwater, but this deserves a separate chapter for its consideration.

            Upon the whole, our party were much pleased with their excursion to Portland, which permitted agreeable sources of gratification to persons of very varied and opposite tastes.  We had in it food for the mind of the antiquary, in its ancient castellated remains; - subjects of investigation for the geologist and naturalist, in its strata, beds, and fossil curiosities; - topics for the student of manners, in the primitive condition and habits of its people; - gratification for the lovers of marine landscape; - in the extensive and commanding views of the British Channel and its coast, east and west; - and all the enjoyments of vigorous exercise, fresh air, and the healthful pleasures of which these are the delightful sources.

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